Whangaeri and the Tutakaka Coast

Stone store at Kerikeri. Built in the 1830's as a Weysleyan mission

We’ve experienced continued rains from the tail end of a cyclone and the air is so humid our gore tex coats can't "sweat"! No worries since it is warm and tropical. We spent a quiet Sunday morning wandering the streets of Kerikeri including a stop at the oldest stone building in NZ. Designed by a
Wesleyan missionary and built in 1819 by an Australian convict, it served as a trading station, post office, and supply depot for the mission. It is now a museum and gift shop. During our visit in ’81 the whole estuary was destroyed in a tropical storm. Buildings, boats and all. There was even a large sail boat left 20 feet up in the trees after that cyclone, but the store remained intact.

Today begins an exploration of the Tutakaka Coast and the port of Whangarei. We’ve enjoyed some beautiful hikes along the headlands and beaches which are pristine, but across the mouth of the bay is the largest oil refinery in NZ. Whangerei has one of the largest deep water harbors in the country and they have developed the harbor with walking tracks, historical monuments to the Maori culture, and have a number of interpretive sites with public art sculptures as well as an award winning bridge that raises for boat traffic. We’re staying upland in a historic home called Lupton Lodge. Huge room and amenities include a pool table, outdoor swimming pool, and includes breakfast. A different experience from hitchhiking and staying in motor camps which we had done during our 1981 visit. This morning the weather breaks a bit for a morning bike ride around the boat basin and harbor including stopping for the bridge opening. In addition to art sculpture there are also large cast concrete recumbent benches for soaking up the sun, and workout stations along the path. Since the weather is holding we head out along the northern shore of the harbor to the bream peninsula and walk a track past an old WWII gun emplacement. The path makes a circuit up and over Busby head and comes out at a white sand beach, Smuggler’s Cove. Weather is threatening with distant thunder and a few raindrops as we cross the saddle back to the trail head. Again, we have the track and beach all to ourselves. We do meet Haydon, a really nice Kiwi fellow who is coming back with a Snapper he caught surf casting off the rocks. His left upper arm has Maori Tattoos which apparently tell the lineage of his family. Haydon is proud of his heritage and close to his family. He is off to visit his “nanna” who is in the hospital. We head upland and north for a hike to Kukutatauwhao Island and Tutakaka head which has to be done this evening as the path crosses the rocks which are underwater except at low tide.

Heavy, heavy rain returns through the night. Skies clear during the day as we take a look in the shops in Whangarei this morning followed by a drive to Matapouri Bay and a hike to Whale Bay. The bay is secluded and sheltered with a wonderful swimming beach. After a swim we hike out to the Matapouri Bay headland and views off to Poor Knights Islands where we are planning a trip for snorkeling in a couple of days.

After a "cooked breakfast" the next morning (toast, eggs, bacon, fruit) the rain has cleared. Just 10 minutes down the road is Whangarei falls which is flowing fast today. At the base is a nice bush walk that follows a small river all the way to the town boat basin and includes an elevated loop through a Kauri stand where you are actually walking in the forest canopy. The weather is holding and while the surf is high and it isn't a swimming day we drive back to Matapouri bay and attempt a walk to the mermaid pools, but the tide is too high and the surf wouldn't allow us to get down to these large basins in the rock that fill with the tidal surge. We opt for another hike along to the headland from the Matapouri bay side and spend some time watching a kite surfer work his way back and forth in the tidal surge. Pretty amazing skill as it appeared effortless in spite of a 25 knot wind!