Exploring the Coromandel Peninsula

After regrouping in Hamilton at our friend Mark’s house, we’re off to explore the Coromandel Peninsula which is rich in history and scenic beauty. The area is known as a summer vacation spot for Kiwi’s but more lately has been discovered by foreign tourists--like us! The East side abuts the Pacific and has many beautiful coves and beaches. Traveling north and east our first stop is a ride along the Hauraki rail trail segment in the Karangahake gorge. This area was developed during the gold rush of the late 1800’s and has many remnants of old town sites, ore refining mills and the rail grade that moved ore to the mills which now is a cycle and walking track. The gorge is especially beautiful as it follows the river with lush subtropical greenery then opening up onto rolling farm land. The trail meanders as it follows the river and ends at Waihi on the coast. There remains an active underground gold mining operation even today. Our evening was spent having a wonderful dinner at The Bistro restaurant associated with The Falls Retreat, and an overnight at a one room cottage set in a garden. Heading up the Coromandel coast are the twin towns of Pauanui with mostly upscale Auckland vacation homes. Across the estuary is the town of Tairua and its boat and fishing harbor. The town is known for Mt Paku, an old volcanic cone that has 360 degree views of the sea and upland from the top. Our final destination is the Mercury Bay region and Cook’s Beach where we’re in search of a Kiwi holiday beach experience. Mercury Bay’s history dates back to the early Polynesian explorer Kape' who travelled from the Society Islands in a huge canoe navigating by stars, phosphorescence sun and moon, around 950 AD establishing the start of a Maori homeland. In the late 1700’s, Captain Cook made landfall here resupplying his water and tracking Mercury’s position with the sun which allowed him to accurately locate where New Zealand was in the Pacific, hence the name Mercury Bay. Cook continued on to do extensive survey and charting of New Zealand’s coast. Impressive to me, Cook, as commander of the “Endeavor” navigated throughout the Pacific, and up the north American Pacific coast, exploring the coastal waters clear to Alaska! Less ambitious than Cook, we plan to explore the mid and eastern Coromandel, but will save the north area for another trip.

Kahrange Gorge and Tunnel, part of the Hauraki Rail trail from Paeroa to Waihi

Sorry, the last train already left--we're riding back

Good advice even today

The falls

Our funky B and B in Waihi

Gourmet dining at Falls Retreat Bistro

Tairua and it's upscale neighbor Pauinui

We’re staying at a wonderful accommodation, Purangi Garden reserve on the estuary of the Purangi River. It is quiet and surrounded by upland pastures. Over the last 30 years gardens, trees, and orchards have been planted and tended by our hosts, Susan and Rod. The reserve is owned in trust and has many public walking tracks with plans for an extended walk along the coast line. The estuary our chalet is on, runs with the tide and is constricted at the outlet creating a tidal river at with the ebb and flood you can float down. The beach opening to the bay is secluded and the edge shaded by trees, interspersed with rocky areas. At night snapper run up the estuary to eat cockles and as you can see below, the tua tua clams are plentiful. We dug handfuls in no time at all which we had for dinner. In addition to the grounds, gardens, beach we also had the use of kayaks and fishing poles. Bonnie and I took an early paddle around the point the next morning, but came back as I noticed water was seeping into my boat, apparently from a crack in the stern. It was work to paddle not only with the extra weight, but against the outgoing tide! Our afternoon was spent at Hahei beach and a walk to Cathedral cove which has a huge arch connecting two beautiful beaches. The walk is 30 minutes or you can take a kayak tour or a small water taxi comes over from Hahei.

Parangi river estuary across from Cook's beach and Mercury bay

Parangi Gardens Retreat

View from the garden

Fish and Tua Tua clams

Unexpected dinner guest

Trailhead to Cathedral Cove

Walk down Cathedral cove

The arch at Cathedral cove

Saturday is overcast and warm so a good day for an overland trip from Purangi across the Coromandel on the 309 road which is dirt, winding, and in places one lane. The highlights are the upland bush and native plants and a beautiful walk to a native Kauri grove. These trees are 100's of years old and massive. The oldest and largest specimens were over 90 feet from base to the first branches, 26 meters in circumference and believed to be over 1,000 years old. They were logged heavily throughout the 1800's into the early 20th century and supplied wood for spars and masts as it was so strong and straight grained. The gum at the tree root bases was dug and made into spar varnish. Historical photos are reminiscent of the logging of old growth that occurred during the same time period in the northwest, and the techniques to harvest, and the culture of the logging camps was similar. There are still remnants of wooden dams that were built on streams to create mill ponds high up the hill sides where oxen dragged these massive logs. The dam centers were tripped open resulting in a massive torrent of water and wood that sluiced the timber down the mountains into the rivers and bays. Today, the Kauri is protected even to the point you clean your shoes at trail heads before walking into the forests to avoid bringing in plant diseases that could damage the trees.

Dropping off the 309, the road drops down to Coromandel town which is a large oyster and mussel farming center. Heading south we end back at Hahei beach for two nights. Sunday is overcast with some sun breaks and a great day to drive and explore other beaches. Aside from the natural beauty of this area, the vacation aesthetic is very simple—No tourist traps, mini golf, fast food, bill boards; only beach and family and friends enjoying themselves. Our trip takes us along the coast north of Hahei and Cook’s beach to Opito and Otama, beaches which are on the road, and New Chum’s beach which is a hike across a headland and is rated as one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world. I can’t say which is most beautiful as they are all lovely, isolated and unspoiled. The water is quite comfortable, but this year we were told the swell is bigger than usual so we’re a bit careful about swimming.

Manuka honey shopping with my honey

Kauri grove with siamese Kauri. Two trees from one trunk

Otama Bay

Otama beach, all to ourselves

Opito Beach

New Chum's beach

Monday gave us some morning time to enjoy walking Hahei beach, getting some sun, and hiking to Lonely Bay. The afternoon is complete with a visit to the Purangi Winery which makes wine, cordials, spirits, wood fired pizza, and for the price of a pizza you can pitch your tent on their property. Danny Evans, the proprietor is fast talking, funny, informative, and is a wealth of information about quirky historical facts about New Zealand. We have quite a discussion around American and Kiwi slang words that when used in each other’s culture can have a very different meaning! After sampling gin made from lemon and juniper, cordials from Feijoa, and Slivovitz, a plum brandy, which he pours on the bar and ignites to demonstrate that it is indeed as “strong” as it tastes. The day is done and we return to Purangi Gardens for our final night on the Coromandel. This morning after another fast float and swim on the incoming tide up the estuary, we head for Auckland and then north to the Bay of Islands.